Here comes the sun. Along with the pleasures of warm weather and more time in the great outdoors, the usual host of concerns and confusion about sunscreen return. The struggle to separate fact from fiction has become an annual ritual as news reports trickle in and clickbait headlines scream apocalyptic warnings.

The good news is, as more people become aware of the importance — and potential shortfalls — of sunscreen, more and more new research is emerging.

Case in point: The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) published a proposal in February 2019 for updated sunscreen regulations. In 2022, the National Academies issued a report calling on the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to evaluate the active ingredients in sunscreen, their role in harm to aquatic environments, and how potential changes in guidance could affect usage and human health. And in May 2022 the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a nonprofit advocacy organization, released its 16th Annual Guide to Sunscreens.

The bad news is that the new EWG report found that roughly three-quarters of the more than 1,800 sunscreens analyzed don’t provide adequate protection, or they contain ingredients that the FDA has not yet established as safe and effective. Unlike Europe, which regulates sunscreens the same way it does beauty products, and where 27 active sunscreen ingredients are approved by the government, in the United States, the FDA currently allows the use of just 16 active ingredients. Two actives (PABA and trolamine salicylate) are not recognized as safe and effective; and an additional 12, including oxybenzone and octinoxate, were recently determined by the FDA to need further testing before they're considered safe. The good news is that two ingredients are labeled as safe and effective — zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. These are considered physical blocking ingredients, and they're found in sunscreens with a "mineral" or "physical" label.

Americans are becoming more dedicated to using nontoxic products in their households — as noted in a story published in August 2018 in Progressive Grocer — so it’s not surprising that there’s a corresponding increase in internet searches for so-called clean sunscreens. After all, it’s something you apply directly to your body’s largest organ. But there’s so much misinformation on social media that, according to a study in the 2020 issue of Health Communication, some people are clicking on links on how to make your own homemade sunblock — with dangerous results. (Coconut oil and beeswax don’t work — sorry, Pinterest!)

To sort through the report's findings and quickly cut to the bottom line, we narrowed down your sunscreen shopping trip to these six easy steps.

1. Read the Label First

A list of ingredients that are hard to pronounce, let alone understand, can be downright overwhelming. So what are the key things to keep in mind? “Look for sunscreen that’s labeled broad-spectrum and has an SPF of at least 30,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, the director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital’s department of dermatology in New York City. “This means it protects against both UVB and UVA rays.”

One caveat about SPF levels: Doctors recommend at least 30, but according to the EWG, products with claims of high SPF values are on the rise and are often misleading. One problem is that the SPF value on product labels pertains only to UVB protection. So a sunscreen with an over-the-top SPF may not adequately shield skin from the harmful ultraviolet A rays that cause skin aging and possibly melanoma, the deadliest type of skin cancer.

According to the FDA, high SPF products can also mislead people into thinking they are completely protected from sunburn and long-term skin damage. This false sense of security sometimes causes people to think it’s okay to spend more time in direct sunlight, so they end up getting more ultraviolet exposure, not less.

2. Learn the Pros and Cons of Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens

When it comes to protecting yourself and your family from UV rays, there are so many factors beyond SPF. Some clean beauty proponents will tell you the answer is simple: Choose a mineral over a chemical sunscreen. But not everyone agrees.

What’s the difference? “Mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide,” Dr. Zeichner says. “They form a protective seal over the surface of the skin and protect the skin by reflecting away UV light. They tend to be chalkier and leave the skin with a white tinge. Chemical sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UV light and prevent it from penetrating into the skin. They absorb fully into the skin, but may cause irritation in people with sensitive skin.” For that reason, “mineral sunscreens have the greatest level of safety data” for those with sensitivities, he says.

The EWG’s stance on how sunscreens should be formulated is firm. “We recommend opting for a mineral-based sunscreen,” says Emily Spilman, the program manager on the healthy living science team at EWG in Washington, DC, who has been involved in their Sunscreens Guide. She suggests choosing products made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide (or both) as the active ingredients, because these products generally offer good sun protection and have fewer active-ingredient health concerns.

As with clean eating and clean beauty, it’s become popular in some circles to talk about using a “clean” sunscreen.

The problem is that there is no standard definition for that term. “Some people define clean sunscreen as not containing chemical-blocker ingredients,” says Zeichner. “Others define it as containing only organic, sustainably sourced ingredients. The EWG tends to recommend mineral-based sunscreen. Despite these recommendations, most dermatologists continue to recommend chemical sunscreens in combination as well. The currently available sunscreens in the United States are safe and effective, and the benefit in protecting the skin from harmful UV rays outweighs any perceived risk to our health.”

Holly Thaggard is the founder of Supergoop in San Antonio, Texas, a protective skin-care brand that puts sunscreen at the forefront. She says both mineral and chemical sunscreens can be right for you depending on your skin type. “Chemical sunscreens absorb UV light, so your skin doesn’t, and they allow for weightless, sometimes clear formulas. These are great for daily wear, multiple skin tones, the beach, and working out. Mineral sunscreens are made up of tiny white, UV-protecting particles — zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both — and are more gentle, perfect for anyone with sensitive or acne-prone skin.”

One issue is that if people feel a sunscreen doesn’t look good on their face, they might not wear it every day. “The knock on mineral sunscreens, as you know, is that they are not cosmetically elegant; they leave a film, and that’s not great, especially on darker skin,” says Sapna Westley, MD, a dermatologist in New York City. “I have a lot of patients who are very nervous about anything chemical and just use a mineral, zinc-titanium block and they do perfectly fine.”

Thaggard agrees that mineral sunscreens are not as wearable, and must be formulated carefully to ensure that they are stable and effective, but that both options are viable. “At Supergoop, we believe that there’s a time and place for both sunscreens: clean chemical, aka no oxybenzone and soon-to-be no octinoxate, and 100 percent mineral, containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide or both that still blend beautifully.”

3. Know the Difference Between Oxybenzone and Avobenzone

EWG recommends avoiding oxybenzone in sunscreens. “This ingredient may behave like estrogen. Oxybenzone is absorbed through the skin and can affect hormone levels,” Spilman says.

While an article published May 6, 2019, in JAMA raised concern about how quickly some SPF products are absorbed into the skin, Zeichner says the research was based on tests in which people covered 75 percent of their body with sunscreen every two hours. “It’s unclear whether there is reason for concern about absorption based on the way most people use sunscreen in the real world,” he says. “Based on what we know today, the benefit of wearing sunscreen in protecting the skin against skin cancer and premature aging outweighs the potential risks. If anyone is concerned about the use of chemical blocker sunscreens, mineral options that contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide are a great option.”

A follow-up FDA study analyzed six active sunscreen ingredients (avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate). Along with maximal, every-two-hour use, researchers also looked at skin absorption from a single application and found that some of these ingredients remain detectable in the body for up to 21 days. But the implications of this aren’t yet clear. The research looked at whether these ingredients were absorbed and how long they remained in the body, but not if they caused harm. The recommendation to wear sunscreen as directed stands.

Thaggard adds: “Oxybenzone is a frequently used, inexpensive active ingredient found in some sunscreens. While it helps achieve high SPF ratings, it is also widely known as being one of the most irritating raw ingredients to work with, as opposed to the alternative, much more skin-compatible, and noncontroversial avobenzone, which is essential for a broad-spectrum clean chemical sunscreen.”

4. Why Broad-Spectrum Matters in a Sunblock

Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA — which causes wrinkles — and UVB rays — which cause sunburn and skin cancer, according to the FDA. “When it comes to sun protection, most people tend to think only about sunburns,” says Thaggard. “But the truth is, they're forgetting an entirely different type of damage. UVA rays enter the skin’s surface even deeper, and they can contribute to skin cancer and also cause signs of aging. It's important to remember that UVA rays are present throughout the year at about the same intensity, even when it's cloudy or through windows.”

5. Check Your Sunscreen’s Water Resistance

If you’re going to the beach or pool in the summer, a water-resistant sunscreen is a no-brainer. But it’s a pretty smart option for daily use as well, explains Dr. Westley. “Water-resistant sunscreens are good because the rule of thumb is that we tell people to reapply every two hours. And a lot of people don’t realize that they’re sweating off their sunscreen throughout the day, especially when it’s humid out, so water-resistant sunscreens give people that extra protection even if they’re not in actual water.” Water-resistant sunscreens are labeled as such.

Since 2011, the FDA has banned manufacturers from claiming that any sunscreen is “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Labels can say "water resistant" but only if the sunscreen has been proved to remain effective in water for either 40 or 80 minutes. “According to the FDA rules, sunscreen labels that claim to be water resistant must indicate how long you can wear the product while swimming or sweating before you need to reapply,” says Westley. “I recommend water resistance for up to 80 minutes just to give you that added coverage.”

6. Keep the Vitamin D Factor in Mind

You’ve probably been hearing about the importance of vitamin D since you were a kid. It’s no secret that vitamin D is critical to overall wellness, whether it’s for bone health, immune function, or managing depression, per the National Institutes of Health (NIH). And according to the Skin Cancer Foundation, your body makes vitamin D when exposed to UVB rays. “Internal medicine doctors will tell their patients, ‘Go sit in the sun for 10 minutes a day to get your vitamin D,’” says Westley. “And we dermatologists say, ‘No! Don’t do that without sun protection because you can get skin cancer,’ so that can get a bit controversial.” The compromise? “Because it’s so easy and inexpensive, I tell patients to supplement with vitamin D instead.” Westley, who recommends her patients get their D levels checked every year, says she prefers D3 for its higher bioavailability. You can also eat foods enriched and fortified with vitamin D, including egg yolks, fatty fish such as mackerel and salmon, some cheeses, and beef liver, per the NIH.

The Bottom Line on Choosing a Good-Quality Sunscreen

“UV light is a major cause of skin cancer, including the deadly form, melanoma,” says Zeichner. “Proper use of sunscreen will help lower the influence of cancers in the future. With so many different sunscreens on the market, there is a formulation for every personal preference. As a dermatologist, I tell my patients that the best sunscreen is ultimately the one that you are actually using," he says. “No matter what ingredients the sunscreen contains, they will not work if you’re not applying it to your skin.” Choose a sunscreen in a formula — cream, lotion, gel, stick, spray — that you are happy to use.

The EWG found 247 recreational and 161 daily-use sunscreens that meet their standards, so there are plenty of safe and effective options out there. Shoppers on the go can download EWG’s free Healthy Living app to get ratings and safety information on sunscreens and other personal-care products.

What’s more, Zeichner points out it’s worth protecting skin against visible light, which isn’t associated with skin cancer, but can contribute to discoloration and melasma. Look for tinted sunscreens, which have iron oxide pigments that guard against this visible light, he says.

Perhaps the most important thing to remember about sunscreen is that sunscreen by itself isn’t enough. “Proper sun protection includes protective clothing, like a lightweight, long-sleeved shirt, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses with UV protection,” Spilman says. “Being in the shade is essential. Find or make shade under a tree, take an umbrella to the beach, and set up the stroller canopy on walks,” she adds.

Westley tells her patients they can enjoy the outdoors but to be “sun smart,” especially between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun is strongest, according to the American Cancer Society. Most important, make sunscreen a daily habit, like brushing your teeth. For easier reapplication and portability, choose a sunscreen powder or stick, she suggests. “We know that the risk of skin cancer, which I see every week now in younger and younger people, outweighs the risks of any ingredients that we know of at this point,” says Westley.

Additional reporting by Jessica Migala.